Indigo Aged Gracefully

This is quite the bittersweet post. The cheese made by Paula Jenkin at the Indigo Cheese Company have been considered to be the best examples of goat cheese in the country so it's with much sadness that the news came this week of it's closure. Unprofitability the reason behind the decision.

This resonates with something my favourite deli owner told me as I searched for a new cheese to taste - Australians don't buy Australian cheese. It's a no-brainer then that if we don't buy it, they don't get stocked but if they aren't stocked, how can we buy them?

In compiling this series there has been a difficulty in finding a broad variety of cheese - there are many dairies I'd love to show but I'm unable to find their cheese. I can only be thankful to the various farmers' markets that have allowed me access to a greater number of cheese than can be found via traditional retail outlets.

This brings me back to Indigo Cheese Company - this has been one of those that I've found elusive - until today.

Cheese Maker: Indigo Cheese Company
Cheese Name: Aged Gracefully

There it was sitting unassumingly in the cheese cabinet of Leo's in Kew, almost lost amongst it's much larger companions. Aged Gracefully is a demure cheese, small in size but not in impact.

Freed from it's wrapper you see that it indeed has "aged gracefully". This is a matured goat cheese, made in the French style (Crottin).

It starts its life as another cheese made at Indigo called Grace (which is like a French Chabicou). Grace is sold as a youngster (about 2 to 8 weeks) but some are left to develop for 3-4 months. In this time the rind becomes covered with both white and blue moulds and it looses quite a bit of it's moisture. Where Grace weighed about 125 grams, Aged Gracefully weighs less than 80 grams.

Sliced you can see that the rind is quite thin and the cheese doesn't show any traces of moisture. It's a little crumbly when sliced and you might think that it could be a little dry or chalky.

It's most pleasant to find that it isn't - in fact it had a wonderful creaminess balanced with a tinge of acid in the form of subtle lemon overtones. It's a cheese that's satisfying and well worth savouring and spending some time with. Unfortunately once this is finished there will be no more.

Vale Indigo Cheese - We hardly knew you.


Originally published here

Tarago River Shadows of Blue

Tarago River Cheese was started in 1982 by the Jensen and Johnston families with 250 acres and 300 cows. Today they have grown to more than 850 acres and 800 cows. The dairy is located on the main road that links Neerim South to Mt Baw Baw. In fact during winter, most weekends we'd stop over here on our way to Mt Baw Baw for some of their fabulous cheese. Unfortunately, the cellar door isn't open any longer - the space was needed as demand for their cheese increased.

The cheese I'm looking at today is one of Paalo's favourites - just its name is enough to send him misty eyed.

Cheese Maker: Tarago River Cheese
Cheese Name: Shadows of Blue
Location: 2236 Main Neerim Road, Neerim South, Victoria

Shadows of Blue as the name tells you, is a blue cheese, made in the style of a Blue Castello. Penicillium Roqueforti cultures are used to produce this creamy but mildly flavoured cheese. The photo below clearly shows the injection marks.

Even though it looks like it would be heavily veined, it isn't.

This really is the type of blue that even an avowed blue hater should be able to eat. The mould acts to break down the cheese structure and leave it wonderfully creamy and almost spreadable.

This cheese usually disappears fairly quickly on a cheese board - it's the type that should be served on crusty bread and in generous portions. Other uses - savoury tarts, pasta sauces, pizza toppings or a wonderful companion to Prosciutto and figs.


Originally published here

Alcheringa Nathalia Camembert

It's a Victorian Cheese this time - from up north in the Murray Valley and it's an example of making the most of what you have.

In this case it's diversifying into cheese making, with the help of Locheilan Farmhouse Cheese they produce about 200 rounds of Camembert and Brie a fortnight.

Cheese: Alcheringa Nathalia Camembert
(Bio-dynamic Milk and Non-Animal Rennet used)

As a nod to their district, the label takes it's colour from those of the local football and netball teams.

Unwrapped you will find quite a firm white mould - not moist but more soft like velvet.

Now, this cheese was cut after being left out at room temperature for a couple of hours. As you can see it's not a soft, runny style. It cuts easily to reveals it's golden centre. It has those typical characteristics - a good earthiness combined with a creamy texture makes it quite appealing. It's quite chewy - the skin a little more intense but all in all, will make a nice change on your cheese platter.


Originally published here

Westhaven Chevre

Westhaven Dairy is situated near Launceston, Tasmania and started about 30 years ago. Today they predominately make Chèvre, along with a range of both cow and goat milk yoghurt and fetta. Their goats' milk is sourced from dairies in nearby Tamar Valley.

Cheese: Westhaven Chèvre
Location: 89 Talbot Road Launceston - Open to the public

This Chèvre is a made in the French style from pure goats' milk and uses kosher certified rennet. It has a moist skin and I'd class it as semi-soft. It will crumble a little when cut.

It has a mild flavour with a creamy mouth-feel and good acid levels. I'd probably assign this to be cooking cheese rather than a something I'd place on a cheese board. In fact this cheese was used to recently make the goat cheese crostini and proved a perfect element for the dish.


Originally published here

Barossa Valley Cheese Co. Washington Washrind

Having impressed with their Goats Camembert I knew it wouldn't be too long before trying another from their range. As luck would have it, a solitary round of their recently awarded Champion Washed Rind Cheese lay in the cheese cabinet - it was an opportunity not to be missed.

Cheese: Washington Washrind
Location: Cheese Cellar - 67B Murray Street, Angaston, South Australia

This doesn't score on the cute label scale as the previous cheese but as the saying goes, it's what's inside that counts. Washed rind cheese do suffer somewhat due to their pungent nature but I must admit that I am a devotee.

I do quite like the description on the label

a smear ripened cheese with a sticky, orange mottled rind and pungent yeasty aromas

There is truth in advertising in this case. I really couldn't describe it any better.

Though it looks robust it's actually quite soft in the hand and will get pushed out of shape.

The rind is quite thick and very strongly flavoured - I'd rank this as more intensely flavoured than the King Island Stormy. If you are new to washed rind cheese I wouldn't start with this one.

I'd also recommend leaving this out in the open for a few hours to rid it of any lingering ammonia scent. At room temperature it does develop that lovely unctuous characteristic and oozes so wonderfully when sliced. This cheese would certainly make a statement on your cheese platter.


Originally published here